I realize that dealing with Actual Humans at a real family-owned electrical supply can be a real break-step from dealing with the orange/blue/green Borg, but your pocketbook will thank you if you learn to break-stepįor costing reasons, if your local big-box doesn’t sell #1Al, just upsize to whatever wire they do sell, and consider that their “bid”. (I gather it was a company that went out of business). One even put me on a real customer account lol. In other words, if the 100-amp service is fed with a 75-amp rated wire, then it does not meet the 80 NEC requirement. This means that the minimum size wire should have an ampacity of at least 80 amps. Most supplies I deal with put me on their generic-customer “account” so I get a fair discount. The National Electric Code requires that a wire size for a 100-amp service must not be lower than 80 of the ampacity of the service. And then actually do that unless their price is insane.Īnd if their price is insane, they are quoting you the “I don’t want to do business with you” price because they’re still crusty. And then read off a substantial bill of materials like you are looking to buy the whole kaboodle from them. Also, aluminum wiring is a viable option for. To conclude this blog post, you have learned that 2 AWG is the perfect 100 amp wire size. This wire is used when the run between the breaker panel and the electrical load (such as an air conditioner) is long, like in large commercial buildings. Let on early that “I’m sick of overpaying at the big-box” because that means you’re someone who has actually noticed that big-box is far more expensive on all but the stuff they think you’ll check. A 2 AWG wire is needed for a 100 amp service. That thing where you think Home Depot/Lowes/whatever is the bee’s knees and feel biologically compelled to buy everything there. That thing, by the way, is called “halo effect”. But this is how novices approach electrical supplies 99% of the time, like they’re dirt on their feet, a cursed inconvenience. Double especially if you call looking for the one thing they know Home Depot doesn’t stock”, you are flat-out telling them “Hey, Imma gonna buy this whole job at your competitor (except this one bit), but I’ll be on the phone all day asking for advice (once I realize my primary supplier is a bunch of idiots), and then, I’ll return cut wire and want my money back (and chargeback when you refuse)”. Especially if you call ‘em all mealy-mouthed and asking for advice. Some electrical supplies are crusty about dealing with novices. But I was thinking that if you put the glue on the inside piece, it will push the glue toward the outside when you connect them rather than the inside. Typical sizes of wires for 100 Amp Service are 4 AWG or 2 AWG for copper wiring and 2 AWG, 1 AWG, or 1/0 AWG for aluminum or copper-clad wiring. What Size Wire Do I Need To Run 60 Amps 100 Feet As a rule of thumb, a 60-amp cable with 100 ft length will experience a 20 voltage drop. 900 kcmil aluminum wire for 400 amp service. It has 420A ampacity more than the minimum required 400A ampacity. As we can see from this screenshot, we need either: 600 kcmil copper wire for 400 amp service. I know this isn't the accepted right way to do it, I believe because the glue can cause problems with the conductor insulation. Here we are looking at the median copper and aluminum wire ampacity at 75☌ (167☏). It's tempting to lay out the wire and run each 10' stick of PVC down the wire and glue it one at a time rather than fishing the entire run. Ok, so for the 100 amp line, three #1 aluminum and maybe a #4 aluminum for ground in 2" conduit? But you guys are making me think I need to do individual wires for that also. I was going to use 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 for that with 3" conduit. I have a 200 amp run I'm doing also that I didn't mention. I'd rather use whatever is right and makes the job easier to do. Outdoor circuits, however, are often quite long and the voltage drop can be significant.I have two 6' tall sons to help me pull wire. Voltage drop occurs in any wire run, but it is rarely a problem with indoor wiring, where the distance from the circuit breaker panel to the end of the circuit is usually relatively short. However, if the cable run is long, as underground runs often are, you may need to increase the wire size to account for voltage drop-a loss of voltage in the circuit caused by the natural resistance in the wires. Sizing the wires, or conductors, for an underground cable is no different than sizing for other household circuits and is typically based on the total load, or electrical demand, of the devices on the circuit. Such an installation is typical when running a circuit to an outdoor location, such as a garage, shed or other outbuilding, or to a yard light or water feature. Underground wire for a residential circuit usually is installed with underground feeder (UF) cable, which is rated for outdoor use and direct burial. The Spruce Home Improvement Review Board.
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